Wanning
©
Wanning

Wanning

Hainan coastal city known for Riyue Bay surf breaks and Xinglong's transplanted Southeast Asian culture.

Wanning is the surfing capital of China — a claim that would have seemed absurd twenty years ago but is now essentially accurate. Riyue Bay (Sun and Moon Bay) on the city's coast hosts the China Surf Open and is studded with surf clubs offering boards, lessons, and the kind of beach-shack atmosphere that Sanya spent years trying and failing to manufacture. The waves are modest by international standards but consistent, the water warm, and the crowd a mix of committed Chinese surfers and curious beginners.

The Xinglong area within Wanning's jurisdiction is a different proposition: a pocket of Southeast Asian culture transplanted to Hainan in the 1950s when ethnic Chinese were expelled from Indonesia and other countries and resettled here by the Chinese government. The result is a town that grows its own coffee, runs the Xinglong Tropical Botanical Garden, and retains a faint Indonesian flavour in its cooking and architecture. The Xinglong Overseas Chinese Museum tells the full story of how this community came to exist.

Inland, Dongshan Ridge is a sacred Buddhist mountain with temples dating to the Song Dynasty, reachable by footpath or ropeway. Shihua Cave in the hills to the north provides limestone drama when the heat drives you off the beach. The combination of coastal surf culture, mid-century overseas Chinese history, and highland Buddhist heritage makes Wanning one of the more genuinely varied stops on the island — and one of the least visited by foreign tourists, which for many people is recommendation enough.

Guide

Getting There

Wanning is served by the Hainan Eastern Loop high-speed railway, with a station at Wanning city. From Haikou, trains take around one hour; from Sanya, around 40 minutes. The station is east of the city centre and a taxi or local bus connects to Riyue Bay (about 20 minutes) and to Xinglong (about 30 minutes in the other direction).

Buses connect Wanning to other cities on the eastern coast, but the high-speed rail is faster and more comfortable for most journeys. Riyue Bay itself is reached by local bus from Wanning station or by taxi; the surf camps can arrange pickup if you contact them in advance.

Guide

When to Go

Wanning's east-facing coast catches more rainfall than the sheltered south coast around Sanya, so the wet season matters more here. October through April is the dry period and the most reliable for surfing and outdoor activity; May through September brings heavier rain and intermittent typhoon risk, though the surf is often bigger during tropical swells.

The Xinglong area is sheltered by the mountains and is usable year-round, making it a reasonable wet-weather alternative when the coast is unpleasant. The China Surf Open, when held at Riyue Bay, draws a crowd and changes the beach atmosphere — worth timing around if that's not what you're after.