Eight-treasure tea (ba bao cha) is the Xining Hui Muslim equivalent of the teahouse tradition: a covered bowl of green tea brewed with dried fruit, rock sugar, chrysanthemum flowers, rose petals, and other ingredients, refilled with hot water throughout the afternoon. The teahouses that serve it are sociable, low-key, and cheap — typically 10 to 15 yuan for a session that can stretch as long as you like.
The best teahouses are in the streets around and behind the Dongguan Mosque, a few steps from the main gate. These are male-dominated spaces but visitors of any gender are welcome. The conversations at neighbouring tables are animated and continuous — Xining's teahouse culture is a working one, where deals are discussed and plans made, not just a tourist attraction. A bowl of sunflower seeds comes with the tea.