The best eating in Nicosia is in the old city, concentrated around Laiki Ytonia and the streets radiating from it. Traditional Cypriot meze — a procession of small dishes from salads and dips through grilled meats and fish — is the thing to order. A proper meze can run to twenty or more courses and is always best shared by two or more people. Budget around €20–30 per person for a full meze with wine.
Beyond the tourist-oriented tavernas of Laiki Ytonia, the streets of the new city around Makarios III Avenue have a wider range of options including good coffee shops, modern European bistros, and Middle Eastern restaurants reflecting Nicosia's cosmopolitan character.