Chhotu Motu Joshi Sweets

One of the oldest sweet shops in the old city, Chhotu Motu Joshi has been selling Bikaner's specialities for generations. The rasgulla here is genuinely different from the Bengali version — firmer, less syrup-soaked, with a slight tang. The kalakand (milk cake) and soan papdi are worth buying by the kilo to take away.

The shop also serves fresh kachori and samosa in the mornings — the crisp, spiced pastry is a good breakfast with a cup of chai from the stall next door. No seating to speak of; this is a take-away and eat-on-the-pavement operation. Prices are negligible.

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