Gangtok, Sikkim's capital, is a surprisingly lively hill town perched at 1,650 metres in the Himalayan foothills. At first glance it has the noise and bustle of any Indian city, but a little further into town the setting takes over — prayer flags flutter between buildings, monasteries cling to ridges above, and on clear days the massive bulk of Kangchenjunga fills the northern horizon.
The main drag runs along MG Road, a pedestrianised stretch with restaurants, shops, and views down the valley. Above the city, Enchey Monastery is worth the steep climb for its quiet atmosphere and panoramic outlook. The Do-drul Chorten stupa in the town centre, encircled by 108 prayer wheels, is the easiest Buddhist site to visit and buzzes with activity morning and evening. The Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, south of town, houses one of the finest collections of Tibetan manuscripts outside Lhasa.
Most visitors use Gangtok as a transit hub on the way to the more remote villages of Pelling or Yuksom, but it deserves a day or two in its own right. Rumtek Monastery, one of the most important centres of Tibetan Buddhism outside Tibet, is an easy half-day trip, and Tsomgo Lake, a sacred glacial lake at 3,780 metres, is about two hours away by jeep.