Manikarnika is Varanasi's principal cremation ghat, and the most sacred site of death in Hinduism. Day and night, without interruption, bodies are brought here on bamboo stretchers wrapped in marigolds, dipped briefly in the Ganges, and then placed on wood pyres that burn for several hours. The ghat handles dozens of cremations daily, and the sight of funeral pyres burning against the river at night — visible from boats on the water — is one of the most profound experiences the city offers.
Photography is strictly prohibited, and you should observe this absolutely. Touts will approach and claim to be guides or priests; politely decline and observe from the outer edges of the ghat or from a boat. The cremation is a sacred family ritual, not a spectacle.
The mythology of the ghat runs deep. It is considered one of the 51 Shakti Peethas — sites where pieces of the goddess Sati's body fell to earth — and is mentioned in a 5th-century Gupta inscription. Between Dashashwamedh and Scindia ghats, it is easily reached on foot along the riverbank.