Keraton

Living sultan's palace with gamelan and dance performances

The Sultan's Palace is a vast walled compound built in the mid-18th century — less a single building than a city within the city, with open pavilions, gardens, performance stages, and museums spread over several hectares. The current sultan, Hamengkubuwono X, still resides here and serves simultaneously as the elected governor of the Yogyakarta Special Region — the only arrangement of its kind in Indonesia.

The outer pavilions are open daily; the deeper parts of the palace, where the sultan's family lives, are closed. The public sections hold an excellent collection of royal regalia, portraits, and traditional gamelan sets. Weekly performances of wayang kulit, gamelan, and classical Javanese dance (bedoyo and srimpi) are held in the main pavilion on a rotating schedule — check the notice board at the entrance for the week's programme. The performances are unhurried and ceremonially serious, performed with the same dedication whether there are five visitors watching or five hundred.

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A story
The Keraton's layout encodes a cosmic axis running from Merapi's summit in the north, through the palace, to the Indian Ocean in the south — a line along which Javanese rulers believed supernatural power flowed. The Sultan and Nyai Roro Kidul, the Spirit Queen of the South Sea, are considered spiritual consorts; annual offerings are still made to the sea on behalf of the palace, and a room in the Kraton is kept permanently ready for the Queen's visits.

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