Museum Loka Budaya

Ethnographic museum at Cenderawasih University with major Asmat collection

Housed on the campus of Cenderawasih University in Abepura, about halfway between central Jayapura and Sentani, this is the most important museum of Papuan culture in Indonesia. The Asmat collection — bisj poles, ancestor figures, war shields, drums — is exceptional, and there are good holdings of bark-cloth painting from the Sentani area, Korowai material, and feathered headdresses from the highlands.

The labelling is mostly Indonesian and the lighting is dim, but the objects speak for themselves. Plan an hour and ask the desk for an English-speaking guide if you want context. Open Monday to Saturday, mornings only; the entrance fee is nominal. Take any Abepura-bound bemo from the centre and ask for "Uncen".

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A story
Many of the finest carvings in the collection were rescued in the 1960s and 70s from villages that were being missionised and were burning their ritual objects as part of conversion. The museum's anthropologists travelled upriver in the Asmat region with cash and tobacco, persuading communities to let the carvings go to a museum rather than the fire.

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