Tana Toraja — often shortened to Tator — is one of the most remarkable cultural destinations in Sulawesi, and arguably in all of Indonesia. The Torajan people are famous above all for their funeral ceremonies, which can last for days, involve the slaughter of dozens of buffalo, and are attended by hundreds of guests. In Torajan belief, death is not an abrupt ending but a gradual transition, and the elaborate rituals that accompany it reflect this — the deceased may be kept at home for months or years before burial. Bodies are ultimately interred in cliff-face graves or placed in hanging coffins on rocky outcrops, a practice similar to that of Sagada in the Philippines.
The main towns are Makale and Rantepao. Rantepao is the better base for travelers: the Rantepao Market, local transport, and most guesthouses are here. The most famous hanging cemetery is Kete Kesu, a short walk south of Rantepao, where ancient tau-tau effigy figures stand guard over the cliff-face tombs. Londa is a dramatic burial cave nearby, and Lemo presents perhaps the finest gallery of tau-tau effigies in the highlands. The traditional tongkonan houses, with their sweeping boat-shaped roofs, are found throughout the highlands; Pallawa is a good village to visit. The hilltops at Batutumonga offer views across the valley. The megalithic standing stones at Bori Parinding are among the most impressive in the region.
The journey from Makassar, the provincial capital of South Sulawesi, takes 8 to 10 hours by bus via Pare Pare and the mountains at Enrekang.