Qom is Iran's pre-eminent religious city, about 140 km south of Tehran. It is the main centre for Shia Islamic scholarship in the country, home to dozens of seminaries and hundreds of thousands of theological students. Non-Muslims can visit but should dress conservatively and be aware that the city operates on a more conservative social register than Tehran.
The dominant landmark is the Shrine of Fatimah al-Masumah, sister of the eighth Imam, which draws millions of Shia pilgrims each year. The golden dome and minarets are the visual signature of the city. Non-Muslims may not enter the shrine itself but can observe the exterior and courtyard. Immediately adjacent is the Feyziyeh School, the most famous Shia seminary in Iran and a building of immense importance in modern Iranian history — it was from here that Ayatollah Khomeini led clerical opposition to the Shah in the 1960s. The Azam Mosque completes the central religious complex.
The surrounding bazaar is active and interesting, specialising in religious goods and in sohan — Qom's famous saffron-and-pistachio brittle, the city's most recognisable contribution to Iranian food culture.
Qom's religious role makes it politically significant in Iran — many senior clerics and revolutionary leaders have studied or taught here. The city is not a typical tourist destination but rewards those with an interest in Iranian religion, politics, and the architecture of Shia devotion.