Ur of the Chaldees is mentioned in the Bible as the birthplace of Abraham and was the capital of Sumeria during its greatest period of power. The site was first excavated between 1922 and 1934 by the British archaeologist Sir Leonard Woolley, whose discoveries — particularly the Royal Tombs — transformed understanding of the ancient world.
The ruins lie near the town of An Nasiriyah, which is the base from which to arrange a visit. The site is within sight of a large military airbase, giving it a slightly surreal character.
The most impressive structure is the ziggurat of Ur-Nammu, built around 2100 BC and dedicated to the moon god Nanna. Two of its three original tiers survive and the structure is remarkably well-preserved for its age — the massive sloping brick walls rise from the flat plain with considerable drama. The Royal Tombs, from around 2600–2000 BC, yielded extraordinary gold objects, lyres, headdresses, and evidence of human sacrifice at burial — all now in museums in Baghdad, London, and Philadelphia.
Standing at Ur on a quiet day, looking out across the flat alluvial plain toward the Euphrates, is one of the more genuinely affecting experiences Iraq offers. The oldest layers here date to before 4000 BC.