The originator of miso-nikomi udon — fat, chewy noodles cooked in a small earthenware donabe pot in red miso broth, served still bubbling at the table with chicken, scallion and a raw egg cracked in at the last moment. Yamamotoya Honten opened in 1925 and is the reference version of the dish; the flagship sits in the Sakae arcade with a much smaller second branch tucked into Esca underground at the station.
About 1,500 yen per pot. The noodles are kneaded without salt (unusual in Japanese udon), which makes them firmer and lets them stand up to long cooking in the miso. Bring a small appetite for sides — the dish alone is filling. Closed irregularly; check ahead.