Onomichi is a small port city on the Seto Inland Sea, squeezed between shipyards, island channels, and steep temple hills. It is famous in Japan for literature, film, cats, narrow lanes, and the views from Senkoji Park. It also happens to be the classic starting point for the Shimanami Kaido cycling route to Shikoku.
The town works because the sights are tied together by walking. The Old Temple Loop threads past dozens of temples, stone steps, small shrines, and hillside houses. Senkoji Park gives the big view over Onomichi Channel and Mukaishima, and the ropeway makes the climb painless if the weather is hot.
Onomichi is easy to visit from Hiroshima or Okayama, but it rewards an unhurried day. Eat a bowl of Onomichi ramen near the station, wander down through the temple lanes, and watch the ferries shuttle across the narrow waterway before the cyclists head out across the islands.