Sapporo's Susukino district is the largest entertainment quarter north of Tokyo — a claim the city makes with some pride and considerable evidence. The area covers dozens of blocks, and on a weekend evening the sheer density of neon, noise, and human activity is striking. Bars, izakayas, ramen shops, karaoke parlours, and basement clubs run wall to wall from the Susukino subway station south through several more city blocks. The main crossing at Susukino intersection, where the elevated monorail tracks and the street-level neon converge, is Sapporo's most photographed urban scene after the Clock Tower.
The district really comes alive after 9pm. Early evening the ramen shops and izakayas fill up with the after-work crowd; later the bars and clubs take over. Ramen is the thing to eat here — Sapporo-style miso ramen is richer and heavier than versions you find in Tokyo, with butter, corn, and bean sprouts standard additions. The network of covered arcades makes exploring in winter manageable, though Susukino regulars seem largely indifferent to the cold regardless. Go on a Thursday or Friday and you will see Sapporo at full volume.