The sacred path to Okunoin runs for two kilometres through a forest of ancient cryptomeria cedars, flanked on both sides by over 200,000 stone graves, stupas, and memorial lanterns. The graves include feudal lords, daimyo, samurai, and eventually modern corporations who have erected monuments here to commemorate their employees. Walking the path in the early morning, before tour groups arrive, is one of the most affecting experiences in Japan.
At the far end, the Torodo lantern hall houses around 10,000 lanterns, some donated by worshippers hundreds of years ago and kept burning ever since. Beyond it, across a bridge, is the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi himself. Photography is forbidden in the inner sanctuary. Go at dusk to see the lanterns illuminate the hall and the cedar forest beyond.