Around 50 of Koyasan's temples offer shukubo — overnight accommodation for pilgrims and visitors. Staying in one is the single best reason to spend a night on the mountain rather than making a day trip. Guests sleep on futons in tatami rooms, eat shojin ryori (the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, usually a beautiful multi-course meal), and are invited to join morning prayers and, at some temples, a morning goma fire ceremony.
The quality and atmosphere vary considerably between temples. Rengejoin and Eko-in are among the most welcoming of international visitors and have English-speaking staff. Kongo Sanmai-in and Muryokoin offer a more traditional atmosphere at a slightly lower price point. Book well in advance for autumn weekends and the August O-bon period. Rates generally include dinner and breakfast and run from around ¥10,000 per person. The experience of waking before dawn, walking the cedar-lined path to the Garan in the mist, and joining monks for morning sutras is something most visitors describe as the highlight of their Japan trip.