Tōshōgū is Japan's most ornate shrine complex, built between 1634 and 1636 on the forested slopes above Nikkō town to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo shogunate. It's a shock after the restraint of most Japanese architecture: every gate, pillar, beam, and bracket is covered in gilded lacquer, vivid colour, and intricate carvings of mythological creatures, plants, and animals. Over 15,000 artisans worked on it, and the result is overwhelming.
The five-storey pagoda at the entrance, the Yōmeimon Gate with its 508 carvings of flowers, birds, and animals, and the mausoleum of Ieyasu himself (at the top of 207 stone steps through cedar forest) are the highlights. The carved panels above the sacred stable — including the famous Three Wise Monkeys — are on the left just after the main torii. Plan to spend at least two hours. The site is busy; arriving at opening (8am) gives you some peace before the tour buses.