Moji is where Kyushu begins — or ends, depending on which way you're crossing. The Kanmon Strait is narrow here, just a few hundred metres between Kyushu and Honshu, bridged above and tunnelled below.
The main draw is Mojiko Retro, the old port district preserved with its Meiji and Taisho-era brick buildings largely intact. It's genuinely atmospheric: outdoor cafes around the harbour, the chateau-like Mojiko Station, the Blue Wing Moji drawbridge that rises six times a day, and the old Mitsui Club marking where Einstein stopped during his 1922 visit to Japan. The architecture here is a reminder that Moji was once a significant port, handling coal exports that fuelled Japan's industrial rise.
From Mojiko, a short ferry crosses to Shimonoseki on the Honshu side — or, more memorably, the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel lets you walk under the strait. Go for the fugu — blowfish — which Shimonoseki considers its speciality and serves in every form imaginable.