Food

Lebanese cuisine is one of the great culinary traditions of the Mediterranean, and eating well here is easy at every budget. The food is fresh, seasonal and built around vegetables, grains, olive oil and herbs, with superb grilled meats and seafood alongside.

Mezze is the heart of a Lebanese meal -- a spread of small dishes shared around the table. A full mezze can include twenty or more plates: hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, fattoush (a bread salad with sumac), labneh (strained yogurt), stuffed vine leaves, kibbeh (minced lamb with bulgur), fried halloumi, and much more. Ordering mezze is the best way to eat in Lebanon. Let the dishes keep coming and take your time.

Manakish is Lebanon's answer to pizza -- flatbread topped with zaatar (thyme, sesame and sumac), cheese, or ground meat. It is the classic breakfast and you will find bakeries selling it on every corner. A manakish with zaatar and a cup of coffee is one of the best cheap meals in the country.

Shawarma needs no introduction, but the Lebanese version -- marinated meat carved from a rotating spit, served in flatbread with pickles, garlic sauce and vegetables -- is outstanding. Street shawarma in Beirut costs a couple of dollars and rivals anything you will find in a sit-down restaurant.

Kibbeh comes in many forms: raw (kibbeh nayeh, made from pounded raw lamb with bulgur and spices), fried (torpedo-shaped croquettes), or baked. Kibbeh nayeh is a beloved delicacy -- if you are offered it in someone's home, it is a compliment.

Grilled meats are excellent. Look for shish taouk (marinated chicken skewers), kafta (spiced minced meat), and lamb chops. The best grills use charcoal and serve the meat with flatbread, raw onion, and a wedge of lemon.

Sweets are serious business. Baklava, knafeh (a warm cheese pastry soaked in sugar syrup, topped with pistachios), and maamoul (filled shortbread cookies) are everywhere. Sidon and Tripoli are particularly famous for their sweet shops.

Wine from the Bekaa Valley is excellent and increasingly well-known internationally. Chateau Musar, Chateau Ksara and Chateau Kefraya are the most established names. Many wineries offer tours and tastings. Arak, an anise-flavoured spirit mixed with water and ice, is the traditional drink and goes perfectly with mezze.

Coffee is served either Turkish-style (strong, sweet, served in small cups) or as espresso in the many modern cafes. Lebanese coffee culture is strong in both traditions.