Highlights

The temples of Baalbek. The most impressive Roman ruins in the Middle East, and among the most impressive anywhere. The Temple of Bacchus is better preserved than the Parthenon. The six remaining columns of the Temple of Jupiter give you a sense of the absurd ambition of the builders. Allow half a day at least.

Byblos. One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with layers of Phoenician, Roman and Crusader remains piled on top of each other. The old harbour is charming, the souk is fun to wander, and there is a Crusader castle with views over the excavations. An easy day trip from Beirut.

The Qadisha Valley and the Cedars. A UNESCO World Heritage landscape of dramatic gorges, cliff-side monasteries and ancient cedar groves. The cedars on Mount Makmal are among the oldest trees on earth. The valley itself is one of the best hiking areas in the Middle East.

Beirut at night. Despite everything the city has been through, Beirut's nightlife remains extraordinary. From the legendary B018 club to rooftop bars in Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael, this is a city that knows how to have a good time. The restaurant scene is equally impressive.

The Beiteddine Palace. A stunning early 19th-century palace in the Chouf Mountains, designed by Italian architects and built by local artisans. Beautiful courtyards, gardens and interiors, plus a collection of Byzantine mosaics. The drive up through the mountains is half the experience.

A Lebanese mezze. Not a sight, but essential. Find a restaurant with a terrace in the mountains above Beirut or in the Bekaa Valley, order a full mezze spread, and spend two hours working your way through hummus, tabbouleh, kibbeh, grilled meats, fattoush and fresh flatbread. This is Lebanon at its best.

Tyre. Roman ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the best sandy beaches in Lebanon. The old city retains a working fishing-port atmosphere that feels genuinely different from the rest of the coast.

The Jounieh cable car to Harissa. A steep ride up from the coast to the white statue of the Virgin of Lebanon, with panoramic views of the crescent-shaped bay below. The view alone justifies the trip.