A small cafe and arguileh bar tucked into the lanes of the old souk, the kind of place that fills with locals in the late afternoon when the day-trippers have headed back to Beirut. Lebanese coffee is served in the traditional way — thick, cardamom-spiced, in small cups — alongside tea, fresh juices, and the arguileh that constitutes serious leisure time in Lebanon. The atmosphere is unhurried, the prices are low, and the owner is a reliable source of information about what's worth seeing in the town.
Good for a break between the souk and the harbour, or for sitting out an hour while the afternoon light improves. The cafe has no particular name visible from the street — ask around the souk or follow the smell of apple-flavoured tobacco.