The food
This is the real reason to come to Malaysia. The collision of Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisines, amplified by centuries of trade and migration, has produced one of the world's great food cultures. Nasi lemak for breakfast, laksa for lunch, banana leaf curry for dinner, roti canai at midnight -- and all of it absurdly cheap. Penang and Kuala Lumpur fight endlessly over which is the better food city. The answer is both.
Georgetown's old town
Penang's capital is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where crumbling shophouses, Chinese clan jetties, Indian temples and colonial mansions coexist in a walkable quarter that feels like a living museum. The street art scene adds another layer. It is one of Southeast Asia's most characterful cities.
Climbing Mount Kinabalu
Southeast Asia's highest peak (4,095 m) in Sabah does not require technical climbing skills, but it is a serious physical challenge. The two-day ascent is rewarded with a sunrise above the clouds that ranks among the great mountain experiences. Book well ahead -- permits are limited.
Diving at Sipadan
Off the east coast of Sabah, Sipadan is regularly ranked among the world's top dive sites. Massive schools of barracuda and jackfish, sea turtles, reef sharks and a dramatic underwater drop-off make this a bucket-list dive. Access is limited to 120 permits per day.
The Cameron Highlands
A cool retreat from the lowland heat, the Cameron Highlands are a landscape of tea plantations, strawberry farms, mossy forests and hiking trails. The colonial-era atmosphere and temperate climate make it feel like a different country. It is an easy day trip or overnight from KL.
Borneo's rainforest and wildlife
The jungles of Sabah and Sarawak are among the oldest and most biodiverse on earth. See orangutans at Sepilok, proboscis monkeys along the Kinabatangan River, and the staggering cave systems of Gunung Mulu National Park. Staying in an Iban longhouse along a Sarawak river is an experience you will not find anywhere else.
Melaka's layered history
Melaka was colonized by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in succession, and each left their mark. The result is a compact, walkable old town where a 16th-century Portuguese fortress sits next to a Dutch church and a Chinese temple. The Peranakan (Straits Chinese) culture here -- with its distinctive food, architecture and dress -- is fascinating.
Island life on the east coast
From November to March the monsoon closes things down, but from April to October the east coast islands -- Tioman, the Perhentians, Redang -- offer white sand, turquoise water and affordable diving and snorkeling. These islands are less developed and more relaxed than the west coast beach destinations.