Malaysian food is extraordinary. The convergence of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Peranakan cooking traditions, amplified by tropical ingredients and a culture that takes eating very seriously, has produced one of the world's great cuisines. Eating is the national pastime, and Malaysians will drive hours for the right bowl of laksa.
The essentials
Nasi lemak is the national dish -- coconut rice with sambal, fried anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and a hard-boiled egg, often with rendang or fried chicken on the side. It is eaten at breakfast, lunch, dinner and midnight. The sambal makes or breaks it.
Char kway teow is flat rice noodles stir-fried with prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, egg and bean sprouts over fierce heat. Penang claims the best version, and the best hawkers have queues to prove it.
Laksa comes in many forms. Penang assam laksa (sour, fish-based, tamarind-spiked) and Sarawak laksa (coconut-based, with prawns and shredded chicken) are the standouts. They taste nothing alike and both are superb.
Roti canai is the Indian-influenced flatbread served with dhal or curry at mamak stalls. It is the default late-night snack across the country. Order it plain, stuffed with egg (roti telur), with onion (roti bawang) or with banana (roti pisang).
Rendang is meat -- usually beef or chicken -- slow-cooked in coconut milk with a complex paste of lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and chilies until the sauce reduces to a dry, intense coating. A celebration dish that finds its way into everyday meals.
Satay -- skewers of marinated meat grilled over charcoal and served with peanut sauce, compressed rice cakes and a cucumber-onion relish. Kajang, south of KL, claims satay supremacy.
Where to eat
The best food in Malaysia is not in restaurants -- it is at hawker centers, kopitiam (traditional coffee shops) and roadside stalls. These are where Malaysians eat, and the quality is remarkable for the price. A meal at a hawker stall costs RM5-15.
Penang is widely considered the food capital, with legendary hawker spots like Gurney Drive, New Lane and Air Itam. Kuala Lumpur counters with Jalan Alor, Petaling Street and the mamak stalls of Bangsar. Ipoh is famous for its bean sprout chicken, white coffee and dim sum. Melaka has Peranakan specialties like chicken rice balls and nyonya laksa.
Drinks
Teh tarik (pulled tea) is sweet, milky tea poured dramatically between two cups to create a frothy top. It is the national drink. Kopi at a kopitiam means strong coffee roasted with butter and sugar, served with condensed milk. Fresh fruit juices are everywhere and cheap. Alcohol is available but pricey due to tax -- a beer at a bar runs RM15-25.