Saddar Cave

Saddar Cave (also written Saddan) is the largest and most atmospheric of the cave pagodas around Hpa-an, about 25 kilometres south of town on the way to the Kayin coast. The cave itself is vast — a series of cathedral-sized chambers where the ceilings retreat into darkness far above and Buddha images of all sizes line the walls and floor. Light enters through holes in the rock at several points, creating shafts of illumination in the gloom.

The walk-through aspect makes it unusual: most cave temples require backtracking, but Saddar has a distinct entrance and exit. The lagoon at the far end — peaceful, palm-lined, and often deserted — is the reward. There are small boats for hire to cross it, staffed by local boatmen who wait for the few visitors who come this far. The combination of the dark interior, the light-filled chambers, the Buddha images in their thousands, and the secret lagoon makes Saddar one of the most memorable sights in Myanmar.

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Saddar Cave is walked through from one side to the other — you enter through the mouth on the hill, pass through a kilometre of chambers filled with Buddha statues and stalactites, and emerge at the far end onto a lagoon fringed with palms and rice paddies. In the dry season, boats wait at the lagoon to ferry visitors back around the hill to the entrance. In the wet season, the lagoon can be walked around, and the surrounding paddies are flooded and green.

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