Phaja Shah Sahib's Siri Paye stall, just inside Bhati Gate, is the most famous early-morning eating place in Lahore. The shop opens around 4 a.m. and is usually sold out by 9 — Lahori men come from across the city for the slow-cooked head and trotters, eaten with naan dipped into the rich orange-yellow gravy.
It is rough, very busy, and undeniably the real thing. Sit at the metal bench outside, order one plate between two, and have an old Lahori show you how to eat it. The naan comes from the bakery next door. Cash only; no menu.