Old Thai city of hilltop palaces, cave temples, monastery murals, and palm-sugar sweets
Phetchaburi is one of Thailand's oldest cities, with roots stretching back to the Dvaravati kingdom over a thousand years ago. Unlike the beach towns further south, this is a place where Thai history sits in plain sight — hilltop palaces, centuries-old cave temples, and monastery murals that rank among the finest in the country.
The city sprawls at the base of Khao Wang, a hill crowned by the summer palace of King Rama IV. Below it, the old town is a tangle of narrow streets lined with traditional wooden shophouses, many of them selling the sweets Phetchaburi is famous for. Khanom mo kaeng, a rich custard made with palm sugar, is practically the city's identity.
Most travelers pass through on the way to Hua Hin or Cha-am, but Phetchaburi rewards a stop of a day or two. The temples are outstanding — Wat Mahathat Worawihan and Wat Kamphaeng Laeng alone justify the detour — and the pace is unhurried in a way the southern beach towns have long since lost. Kaeng Krachan National Park, Thailand's largest, is just an hour west.
Guide
Day Trips
The big draw near Phetchaburi is Kaeng Krachan National Park, Thailand's largest at 2,915 square kilometres, stretching west to the Burmese border. The park is about an hour's drive from town and shelters over 450 bird species, including hornbills and the black drongo, plus elephants, tapirs, gibbons, and spectacled langurs. Trails are only lightly marked in places, and a guide is worth hiring for anything beyond the well-trodden routes near the visitor centre.
To the south, the beach towns of Cha-am and Hua Hin are both within easy reach for a day at the coast.
Guide
Getting There
Phetchaburi is about 120km southwest of Bangkok, an easy two to two-and-a-half hour trip by road.
By bus: Regular services leave from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) in Thonburi. The ride takes around two hours.
By car: Take Highway 35 (Thonburi-Pak Tho) through Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram, then Highway 4 south to Phetchaburi. The total distance is about 123km. You can also drive via Nakhon Pathom and Ratchaburi.
By train: Phetchaburi is on the southern railway line from Bangkok's Hua Lamphong station. Trains are slower than the bus but the route is scenic.
Guide
Shopping
Shopping in Phetchaburi mostly means sweets. The city's palm sugar custards and coconut desserts are sold in shops along the main road, and locals buy them by the box to take home.
Ban Kanom Nanthawan (607 Mu 5, Phetkasem Road; tel: 0 3241 9910) is one of the better-known sweet shops. For the original khanom mo kaeng, look for Kha Nom Mo Kaeng Mae Kim Lang near Tha Yang, about 3km from the Tha Yang intersection. Ton Kla (99/11 Mu 1, Tambon Ton Maphra; tel: 0 3244 6824) is another popular stop.
Guide
When to Go
Phetchaburi has a tropical climate with a distinct wet season from May to October. The coolest and driest months, November through February, are the most comfortable for sightseeing.
The Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair, held over five days in late February at the Khao Wang compound, is the city's biggest event. It features a historical procession re-enacting the arrival of monarchs who ruled Phetchaburi, exhibitions on local history and archaeology, and cooking demonstrations of the province's famous sweets. The Thai Song Dam Festival on April 18 in Khao Yoi district celebrates the culture and cuisine of the Thai Song Dam community, with villagers wearing traditional dress.