Sarayiçi — meaning 'inside the palace' — is the island on the Meriç river where the Kırkpınar oil wrestling festival has been held for more than six centuries, making it the site of the oldest continuously held sporting competition in the world. The stadium here was built to host the event properly, with grandstands and a grass field, but outside of festival season it is a quiet, slightly melancholy place — green turf, empty stands, the river visible through the trees on either side.
The Kırkpınar tournament takes place each June or July and runs for three days. Wrestlers (pehlivan) wear tight leather breeches called kispet and coat themselves and their opponents in olive oil, which transforms any grip into a contest of pure technique and strength. Weight categories range from junior to the heavyweight chief (başpehlivan), and winning the championship carries enormous prestige in Turkish folk culture. If you can visit during the festival, do. The combination of the ancient tradition, the specific smell of olive oil and cut grass, the music, and the intense crowd makes it one of the most singular sporting atmospheres anywhere.