Asmalımescit is the densest meyhane district in Istanbul — a few streets in Beyoğlu packed with traditional rakı-and-meze taverns that fill up after 9pm and stay busy until well past midnight. The format is the same everywhere: arrive, order the meze spread (dozens of small cold dishes), then hot dishes as they come, and drink rakı (the anise-flavoured national spirit, mixed with water) throughout. The better meyhanes have live music — fasıl, the Ottoman-influenced folk music style.
It is loud, jovial, and excellent. Prices have risen considerably as the neighbourhood has been discovered, but a proper meyhane dinner with drinks is still reasonable by European standards. Reservations are strongly recommended on weekends. Babylon, Istanbul's top live music venue, is also in this neighbourhood.