The fish sandwich boats moored at Eminönü are one of Istanbul's most reliable cheap meals. Balık ekmek — fresh mackerel grilled on a rocking boat, served on a half-baguette with lettuce, onion, and a squeeze of lemon — costs almost nothing and takes about two minutes to make. The boats have been here for decades; they swing and sway as the cooks work, which is part of the show.
The Eminönü waterfront is the logical place to eat before or after the ferry to Kadiköy, or a visit to the Spice Bazaar a few minutes' walk away. The fish is invariably fresh. A cup of ayran (cold yoghurt drink) from the nearby stands completes the meal. Eat standing up on the quayside; there are no tables.