Rockhampton sits astride the Tropic of Capricorn on the Fitzroy River, about 40 km inland from the Capricorn Coast. It is Queensland's beef capital — the region runs more cattle than most Australian states — and the Tropic of Capricorn marker on the highway makes it a popular photo stop for travellers heading north.
The city has a handsome stock of Victorian and Edwardian architecture along the Quay Street heritage precinct, a legacy of the gold rush era when Rockhampton was a prosperous staging point for the central Queensland goldfields. The Rockhampton Museum of Art has a surprisingly good collection for a regional city, and the Criterion Hotel at the western end of Quay Street has been serving cold beers under its original iron lacework veranda since 1889.
Mount Archer (607 m) rises to the northeast, and the national park around the summit has pleasant bushwalks, koalas in the eucalyptus forest, and views over the city and coast. The Rockhampton Botanic Gardens, established in 1869, are a calm and free escape from the heat.
The Capricorn Caves — a network of ancient limestone caves 23 km north of the city — are the main natural attraction in the area. Some chambers have openings that allow a sunbeam to light the cave floor at exactly noon around the summer solstice. Guided tours operate daily.
The Capricorn Coast — Yeppoon and the beaches to its north and south — is 45 minutes east and provides the nearest swimming and seafood. Great Keppel Island lies offshore, accessible by ferry from Rosslyn Bay.
Rockhampton is a practical stopover on the Bruce Highway between Brisbane (690 km) and Cairns (1,000 km), but it rewards a day of exploration beyond the fuel stop.