Gjirokastër is a walking town — the old bazaar and the tower houses on the slopes below the castle are best explored slowly on cobblestones that can be brutal on the ankles. The fortress at the top is the obvious first stop, followed by the Ethnographic Museum in Enver Hoxha's former childhood home, and the Skenduli and Zekate houses — two of the best-preserved Ottoman tower houses in the country, still furnished and open to visitors. Allow a full day to see the town properly, plus time for Kadare's statue near the bazaar and a coffee on a café terrace overlooking the stone roofs.