Shkodër's climate is Mediterranean, with hot dry summers and mild rainy winters. The shoulder seasons are the best for a city visit.
Spring (April–early June) is the prettiest time: the surrounding hills are green, the lake is full from snowmelt, wildflowers cover the verges of the lakeside cycle path, and migratory birds are passing through the reserve. Temperatures are in the 18–25°C range; some rain.
Autumn (September–October) is similar — warm days, cool nights, clear light over the lake and mountains. Late October brings the first real rain of the year.
Summer (July–August) is hot — 32–35°C is normal — and dry. The city is comfortable in the morning and evening but tired by midday. This is also the season for the Carnival of Shkodër (well, technically February) and the various lakeside festivals.
Winter (November–March) is cool and grey, with intermittent heavy rain and occasional snow on the higher ground. The cafés and pedestrian street stay busy. Theth and Valbonë are inaccessible by road from late November to April or May.
A useful date: the Marubi Photography Festival runs in November every other year and brings a programme of exhibitions, talks, and screenings to the city.