Shkodër is Albania's fourth-largest city and the cultural capital of the north. It has a distinctive character — more Catholic than the south, with a long history as a trading city under Venetian and Ottoman rule — and a pleasant old centre of narrow lanes and colourful facades.
The main sight is Rozafa Castle, a fortress on a rocky hill at the confluence of the Drin, Buna, and Kir rivers. The views from the walls over the rivers, the lake, and the mountains are among the best in Albania. The name comes from a legend in which a young woman named Rozafa was walled into the foundations to ensure the castle's stability.
The Lake of Shkodër (Liqeni i Shkodrës), shared with Montenegro, is the largest lake in the Balkans. The shoreline just outside the city is peaceful and uncrowded.
Shkodër is the main gateway to the northern mountains. Buses and furgons connect the city to Theth and Valbonë, the bases for the Accursed Mountains (Alpet Shqiptare) and the Peaks of the Balkans trek. It is also the starting point for routes into Montenegro.
The cycling infrastructure around Shkodër is notably good by Albanian standards — the city has been promoting itself as a cycling destination and routes along the lake are well-marked.