A small traditional restaurant in two basement rooms a short walk from the New Bazaar, serving the dishes Albanian grandmothers still cook at home: tavë kosi (lamb baked in yogurt), fërgesë (peppers, cottage cheese, and tomato), qofte (grilled meatballs), and homemade raki. Prices are modest; portions are generous.
It is one of the best places in the city for serious Albanian food and is consistently booked out by both locals and visitors. Reservations recommended.