Café Central

The grandest of Vienna's surviving traditional coffeehouses, occupying the vaulted ground floor of the Palais Ferstel. Café Central opened in 1876 and quickly became a meeting place for the intellectual elite — Freud, Trotsky, Lenin, Adler, and the writers Peter Altenberg and Karl Kraus were all regulars. A papier-mâché figure of Altenberg still sits at the entrance.

The setting is genuinely beautiful: marble floors, Gothic columns, a wooden piano at one end, a vast pastry display at the other. It is also touristy and you may queue. Come for breakfast or in the afternoon for a Verlängerter and a slice of Kardinalschnitte. U-Bahn: Herrengasse.

bars and cafes sight innere stadt
A story
Trotsky played chess at Café Central before the Russian Revolution. In January 1917, when the Austro-Hungarian foreign minister was told that revolution was imminent in Russia, he allegedly replied: 'And who shall lead this revolution? Perhaps Herr Bronstein, who sits over there at the Café Central?' Bronstein was Trotsky.

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