Firuze is a long-running Azerbaijani restaurant in the Old City, named after a folktale princess and decorated like a fairytale set — turquoise tiles, painted ceilings, low cushions in some of the dining rooms. The food is more serious than the decor suggests: properly cooked Azeri classics, with the saffron plov and the lamb kebabs the obvious orders.
The staff sometimes lay on traditional music and dance in the evenings, which can be charming or oppressive depending on your mood. Reservations are essential at weekends. It is at the touristy end of Old City dining, but the cooking is genuine.