Qazmaq is one of the better serious Azeri restaurants in the Old City, named after the crisp golden crust at the bottom of a good pot of plov. The cooking is unfussy and accurate — the namesake qazmaq served with rice and lamb is the dish to order, ideally with a glass of the local Madrasa red.
The setting is a converted Old City house with a small inner courtyard. Service is friendly without being pushy, prices are reasonable by Baku standards, and the kitchen takes care with small things like the bread and the pickles. A useful first or last meal in the city.