Tucked into the lane below the Stari Most on the west bank, Black Dog Pub serves a rotating list of Bosnian and regional craft beers — not always easy to find in a country where lager is the default. The interior is small and dark, in the way good pubs should be; the terrace overlooks the Neretva and gives a side-on view of the bridge.
It is a popular crossroads for travellers, English-speaking locals, and the occasional theatre crowd from the Croatian National Theatre. The owners run jazz and live music evenings through the summer. Open until the small hours.