The Stari Most and the surrounding old town are the obvious starting point. The Kujundžiluk bazaar still rings with coppersmiths, and a small museum inside the Tara tower at the bridge's western end tells the story of its destruction and rebuilding. Climb the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque for the classic photograph.
Beyond the bridge, the larger Karađoz Bey Mosque and the 18th-century Muslibegović House give a fuller sense of Mostar's Ottoman past. Walk a few minutes upstream to the smaller Crooked Bridge, or follow the river south to find quieter restaurants on the Radobolja.
The war is still visible. The graffiti-covered Sniper Tower and the haunting Partisan Memorial Cemetery above the west bank are essential context. So is the deliberately oversized Franciscan church tower and the Holy Trinity Cathedral opposite it on the east — both rebuilt after the war and clearly visible from across town. For something lighter, the Bruce Lee statue in Zrinjski Park is one of the city's stranger postwar landmarks.