Just north of the bridge, Caffe de Alma is a tiny street-corner cafe that takes Bosnian coffee seriously. The owner roasts and grinds her own beans, brews the coffee in a copper džezva over hot sand, and walks newcomers through the ritual — three cubes of sugar, a sip of cold water first, the foam first, then the coffee.
There is also a small shop selling džezvas, copper coffee sets, and bags of roasted beans to take home. It is a fine antidote to the souvenir-shop versions of "Bosnian coffee" served around the bridge. Sit on the bench outside and watch the lane.