In the Turanj district, where the front line of the 1991-95 Homeland War actually ran, an open-air museum lines a stretch of the main road with armoured vehicles, artillery pieces and a MiG-21 jet. Panels explain how Karlovac, only 55 km from the capital, became one of the most heavily contested towns of the conflict.
It is not a comfortable visit, but it is one of the more honest small-town war museums in the region — the hardware is what was actually here. Free to wander; the small indoor exhibit nearby has uniforms and personal effects.