Dolac, the "belly of Zagreb," is a working farmers' market that has been on this site since 1930. The upper, open-air level is a sea of red parasols — a Zagreb signature — under which stallholders sell whatever is in season: strawberries and cherries in summer, mushrooms and pumpkins in autumn, zelje and kiseli kupus (sauerkraut) in winter. The lower, covered level is the meat, dairy, and fish market, where Croatian cheeses (Pag, Lika), prosciutto from Istria and Dalmatia, and Adriatic seafood are all on display.
Most stallholders are farmers and producers from the Zagreb hinterland and have been coming here for generations. It's open from early morning until early afternoon; Saturday is the busiest day. Stop at one of the flower stalls on the cathedral side for the city's best fresh flowers, then carry the bouquet through the Upper Town for the full effect.