Vinodol has been on Teslina Street for over forty years and remains the standard recommendation for traditional Croatian cooking in the centre. The signature dish is meat ispod peke — lamb, octopus, or veal slow-cooked for hours under a heavy cast-iron bell covered in hot embers. The result is fall-apart tender, with crisp potatoes underneath.
The dining room is a brick-vaulted cellar with a large summer terrace under the trees that fills up in good weather. Service is polished, the wine list strong on Croatian whites and the Plavac Mali reds of the Dalmatian coast. Book the peka dishes 24 hours in advance — they need that long to cook properly.