Béziers sits on a hill above the river Orb, about 15 kilometres from the Mediterranean coast, and it wears its age well. The Romans founded a colony here, the Canal du Midi passes through its outskirts, and the city gave rugby to the region — the local club, AS Béziers, was for decades the most powerful side in France. The old centre is compact and walkable, dominated by the Cathedral of Saint-Nazaire, whose terrace gives sweeping views across the plain toward the sea.
It is not a polished tourist city, which is part of its appeal. The covered market on the allées Paul Riquet is lively and unpretentious, the food is good and relatively affordable, and the crowds that fill Montpellier or Nîmes in summer have largely not found their way here. The annual féria in August brings bullfighting and noisy festivity that transforms the normally calm streets for a week.