Pavillon de Vendome

A folly built by a lovestruck cardinal, now a quiet museum and garden

Address 13 Rue de la Molle, 13100 Aix-en-Provence

The Pavillon de Vendome is a graceful seventeenth-century folly hidden behind a high wall on the northwest edge of the old town. A formal garden of clipped box and gravel paths leads up to a small classical pavilion with two muscular caryatids holding up the central balcony — the work of the local sculptor Jean-Claude Rambot.

Inside is a low-key museum of French eighteenth-century interiors with Provencal furniture, faience, and family portraits, and a programme of small contemporary art shows. The real attraction is the garden — it is one of the few in central Aix where you can sit with a book in the shade for free, and it makes a perfect breather after a morning at the markets.

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A story
The Duke of Vendome, a cardinal who had renounced his vows for love of a local woman, built the pavillon in 1665 as a discreet place to entertain her. It was originally a one-storey building tucked into a garden well outside the city walls; later owners added the upper floors and pulled the pavilion back into the growing town.

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