Laguna is one of the better fish restaurants on the boulevard — a glassed-in pavilion looking out at the sea, with white tablecloths and a wood-fired grill. The menu is whatever has come off the boats that morning: Black Sea mullet, anchovy, mackerel, sea bass, and the occasional sturgeon. Order it grilled with a herb butter and a Mtsvane white wine from the western Georgian wine list.
Prices are higher than the old-town khinkali places — this is more of a special-occasion dinner spot — but reasonable for what you get. Book ahead in high season.