Kakheti rewards slow travel. The route heading east from Tbilisi along the A302 passes through a string of monasteries, palaces, and ancient churches, each set against the Alazani Valley or the hills above it. A day trip from Tbilisi is possible, but a week does the region justice.
The main base is Telavi, the regional capital, from which you can reach Ikalto Monastery and the Shuamta Monasteries to the west, Tsinandali Estate and Alaverdi Cathedral to the east, and Gremi Citadel further north. Sighnaghi and Bodbe Monastery sit on the Gombori ridge with sweeping valley views. The David Gareja complex is a half-day further south, near the Azerbaijan border.
Wine is woven through everything here. Family wineries using ancient qvevri clay vessels welcome visitors throughout the region. The Kvareli tunnel winery and the Tsinandali estate offer more formal tastings. In autumn, the entire Alazani Valley turns into a harvest festival.