Hamburg drinks well. The Schanzenviertel around the Schulterblatt is the densest cluster of bars and small cafes, with a strong Portuguese and southern-European presence — coffee, Sagres beer, and grilled fish. St. Pauli and the side streets off the Reeperbahn are the live-music heartland, where the Beatles cut their teeth and where the city still goes to drink late. The Lange Reihe in St. Georg is the centre of Hamburg's gay scene and a relaxed all-comers strip of cafes. The Portuguese Quarter between the Michel and the harbour is the place for an early-evening glass of vinho verde.