Dresden is a surprisingly good place to eat. Saxon cooking is hearty, potato-heavy, and traditionally paired with local beer or — unusually for Germany — white wine from the nearby Elbe valley vineyards. Look out for Sauerbraten, Kartoffelsuppe, Quarkkeulchen (fried curd-cheese patties), and the famous Dresdner Stollen — the dense, almond-and-candied-fruit Christmas bread that the city trademarked and celebrates with an annual Stollen Festival in early December. Around the Frauenkirche and the Altstadt the restaurants are mostly overpriced tourist traps; for better food at better prices, cross the river to the Neustadt, particularly the area north of Albertplatz along Alaunstraße and Louisenstraße, where the nightlife is concentrated and there are cheap Middle Eastern and Vietnamese spots mixed with upmarket bistros. Don't leave the city without visiting Pfund's Molkerei on Bautzner Straße — an 1892 dairy shop whose interior is entirely covered in hand-painted porcelain tiles and is listed by Guinness as the world's most beautiful dairy.