Sitia is a fishing port and the food reflects it: grilled octopus, fresh sardines, small portions of marinated anchovies, and whatever ran into the nets that morning. The cluster of tavernas along the harbour and the waterfront promenade is where to look. Prices are noticeably lower than in the resort towns of central and western Crete.
For ouzo and small plates the back-street kafeneions south of the cathedral are unbeatable — older men playing tavli, octopus drying on a line, and a half-litre of village wine for a few euros. Sitia's surrounding hills produce a renowned PDO olive oil; many tavernas use it generously and you can buy bottles at the Saturday market.